LAST SATURDAY...

I spent a leisurely five hours dining on baby octopus and converting family members to the ways of the Aperol spritz. Afterward, the plan had been to convene with a friend in a damp old cave under the embankment, but the intense odour of cheese emanating from inside was so strong, and perplexing, that it forced us into a retreat. Over the bridge to the land of afternoon ballroom dancing, where I